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JAAL

EMBROIDERY ALL OVER THE FABRIC.

JAMDHANI

THERE ARE MULTIPLE CLAIMANTS TO THE WORD JAMDANI ALTHOUGH THE WORD IS THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN DERIVED FROM “JAAM-DAAR” A PERSIAN TERM FOR FLORAL DESIGNS WOVEN IN FINE COTTON OR “JAMA” A BENGALI WORD FOR DRESS. WHATEVER THE ORIGIN OF THE WORD, THERE IS NO DISPUTE ON THE FACT THAT IT IS ONE OF THE FINEST AND MOST BEAUTIFUL WEAVING TRADITIONS OF THE INDIAN SUBCONTINENT.
THE JAMDANI WEAVERS HAVE RECEIVED PATRONAGE FROM VARIOUS KINGS & DYNASTIES – THE GUPTAS BETWEEN THE 4TH & 6TH CENTURE AND THE MUGHALS BETWEEN THE 16TH AND 19TH CENTURIES. THE PROCESS OF WEAVING JAMDHANI IS TIME CONSUMING, EXTREMELY INTRICATE & CUMBERSOME AND REQUIRES A LOT OF SKILL. A TYPICAL JAMDHANI SAREE CAN TAKE TAKE UPTO A FEW MONTHS TO COMPLETE
THE CLASSIC JAMDANI IS WOVEN ON A BROCADE LOOM AND USES THE SUPPLEMENTARY WEFT TECHNIQUE WHERE THE MOTIFS ARE PRODUCED USING A NON-STRUCTURAL WEFT. WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT THIS WEAVING TECHNIQUE IS THAT THE PATTERN IS NOT SKETCHED ON THE FABRIC. INSTEAD IT IS DRAWN ON A GRAPH PAPER AND PLACED UNDERNEATH THE WARP.
THE FABRICS ARE LIGHT AS A FEATHER AND WOVEN WITH INTRICATELY DESIGNED MOTIFS THAT ALMOST FLOAT ON THE SURFACE OF THE TRANSPARENT & DELICATE FABRIC.


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